For years, I’ve dreamed of visiting Barrington, Nova Scotia, the Lobster Capital of Canada.
Growing up in Southeastern New Brunswick and spending my summers on the ocean at our family cottage near Bouctouche, I’ve been eating lobster since I was a little girl. It’s not just one of my favourite foods – it’s basically a food group.
Today, we spend a lot of time in the summer months in Shediac, New Brunswick, the Lobster Capital of the World, and, as you know, when we’re not in the city (or on the Pointe-du-Chène wharf or doing sunset yoga at Parlee Beach), we’re at our cottage on Grand Manan Island, which just so happens to be another notable fishing community.
Needless to say, I know my lobster and I very easily fall madly in love with coastal towns and fishing communities. So naturally, I had to visit the Lobster Capital of Canada and the South Shore of Nova Scotia, where some of the best seafood in the world can be found. And I’m so excited to share my experience with you.
Before you dive in, if you haven’t caught my article East Coast Mermaid Meets Lucy the Lobster, please do as it complements this article swimmingly!
As you may know, travelling by ferry is my preferred method of transportation or, as I like to call it – the “Mermaid Transportation System.” We regularly take the ferry to Grand Manan Island, and in the summer months, I’m often island hopping amongst the Fundy Isles.
But did you know there is a ferry from Saint John, New Brunswick, to Digby, Nova Scotia?
My adventure to Barrington began early in the morning when I boarded the MV Fundy Rose, operated by Bay Ferries, in Saint John. From the minute I checked in for boarding, the customer service was A+. I was so excited to board, having dreamed about sailing with Bay Ferries for years now, that I was giddier than usual at 7:45 am. But everyone I spoke to outside and in the ticket office seemed equally excited for me and so friendly.
The ferry itself is beautiful. I was speechless from the minute I set foot in the lounge off the elevator. You can choose from multiple lounges and sitting areas, depending on your mood and where you want to be on the boat. From an area with recliners and window seats to dining benches and an onboard restaurant and cafe – there is more than enough to keep you entertained for the 2.5-hour crossing. The boat is also licensed, so you can enjoy many of your favourite adult beverages while sailing.
Because of the time of year and the weather conditions on one of my crossings, it was tricky to be out on the deck, and I only had a quick peek at the exterior top deck. However, I can only imagine how beautiful it must be in the summer with the outdoor bar, restaurant, and loungers. I can imagine it would feel very similar to being on a cruise!
Following a hearty breakfast of French Toast, Bacon, and Sausage—and the crew’s enthusiastic recommendation—I stopped by the Midship Café to try their Salted Caramel Latte, enhanced with a shot of locally crafted Nova Scotia Salted Caramel Vodka. It was the perfect warm treat to sip on while reclining and soaking in the last hour of the crossing.
Both sailings aboard the MV Fundy Rose were exceptional, but what truly stood out was the warm coastal hospitality. Every crew member I encountered on both crossings was incredibly kind, welcoming, and eager to help. It’s that genuine, Maritime friendliness that makes the journey unforgettable (and the beautiful boat, of course!) This certainly won’t be my last trip with Bay Ferries—I’m already looking forward to experiencing it all over again in the summer.
After docking in Digby, I embarked on a scenic 2.5-hour drive to my accommodation in Barrington. There, I had the absolute privilege of staying at the breathtaking Ocean Waves Beach House—an oceanfront haven on Cape Sable Island perfectly named for its constant, soothing soundtrack of crashing waves.
Falling asleep to the sound of the ocean was pure bliss, but waking up was just as magical. The sunrise view from the primary bedroom is nothing short of a dream—I even saw fishing boats heading out to sea in the morning, making it even more appropriate for my Lobster Crawl adventure.
The best way to describe this home is that it’s like something from an Elin Hilderbrand novel. From the coastal decor to the beautiful floor-to-ceiling windows that span the entire backside of the home overlooking the ocean to their private beach, that yes – has seaglass! I found a few beautiful pieces!
The kitchen is a dream, complete with a large island and a pantry that made me envious. I loved spending time in the kitchen, sipping coffee and jotting down ideas for my novel, which I want to start working on. See? Elin Hilderbrand vibes at work.
The property also has a guesthouse, the Sandy Beach Hideaway, which includes a hot tub. I was fortunate enough to take a peek during my stay, and it was equally beautiful—especially the view from the den! Look at those waves!
You can book the Sandy Beach Hideaway for your Barrington adventure here.
And the Ocean Waves Beach House is now booking on Airbnb this summer — click here.
I knew I would have some incredible food during my visit to Barrington. You can’t be the Lobster Capital of Canada without experiencing some next-level lobster dishes. And Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack DELIVERED. It should come as no surprise that I ate at this beloved local restaurant not once but twice in three days. But perhaps what I wasn’t expecting was the different recipes and ways of preparing and serving lobster on the South Western shore.
One of my favourite traditions while traveling is learning from the locals. I love to learn about what they eat, how they cook and prepare it, and what their traditions are when it comes to food. After chatting with locals within hours of arriving in Barrington, I quickly learned about my newest lobster obsession: Creamed Lobster.
Creamed Lobster is a true Southwestern Nova Scotia tradition. While cold lobster rolls are a staple across the Maritimes, this dish is served warm, offering a rich and comforting twist on a classic. The preparation starts the same way—boiling or steaming the lobster before shucking it—but what happens next is where the real magic happens. The succulent pieces of lobster are then sautéed in a generous amount of butter, a splash of vinegar, and, of course, a luxurious pour of cream. The result? A decadent, buttery dish that’s pure Maritime comfort on a plate. And I am obsessed.
In restaurants like Capt. Kat’s, this delicious mixture is served on garlic butter toast or a garlic butter roll but I was told by locals, when Creamed Lobster is served and enjoyed at Christmas, it can also be served on potatoes or rice, in addition to toast or a roll. Capt. Kat’s also serves it on fish cakes, poutines, and more!
You might be wondering about that bottom-left photo. Well, my friends, that masterpiece is what Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack calls the Fishermen’s Delight—and let me tell you, it was nothing short of life-changing. Picture this: a crispy, golden filet of fried haddock, crowned with a perfectly crispy onion ring, which is then filled with salty cheese curds. Just when you think it can’t get any better, a generous helping of rich, buttery creamed lobster is poured over the top, melting into every delicious layer. It was CLAW-SOME.
But the Creamed Lobster fun doesn’t stop there. If you’re visiting Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack, you simply cannot visit without ordering the most decadent appetizer—the Lobster Fondue. This dish is worth it for the photo op alone. Savour mouth-watering sauteed fresh-caught lobster served on skewers with garlic toast and a pot of warm lobster cream for dipping. It is heavenly.
Of course, no discussion of my incredible foodie adventures would be complete without a shoutout to the official beer of the Nova Scotia Lobster Crawl—Shuck Off! While I’m not usually a big beer drinker, this crisp and flavorful craft brew from Boxing Rock Brewing Co. in Shelburne, NS, won me over instantly. It quickly became my go-to drink for the weekend, perfectly complementing every delicious bite.
Barrington isn’t just the Lobster Capital of Canada—it’s also home to some of Nova Scotia’s most stunning white sand beaches. After visiting, I’d argue they’re among the most beautiful in Atlantic Canada. Don’t worry, New Brunswick. I count some of our beautiful beaches amongst these, too.
Despite my winter visit, with temperatures dipping below -10°C, I couldn’t resist exploring the coastline. While the cold kept me from lingering as long as I wanted, I did manage to visit three of the area’s most beloved beaches—and I’m already dreaming of returning to experience them in the warmth of summer.
I don’t think it’s possible to pick a favourite as all three of these beaches are unique in their own way, but the Hawk is the beach I went back to one last time before leaving Barrington because it lured me back after thinking about it all night.
The Hawk is located on the most southerly tip of Nova Scotia, and it is your go-to beach if you want a good look at Cape Sable Lighthouse. This lighthouse is known for being the tallest in Nova Scotia (101 feet tall) and accessible only by boat. To see it by land, you’ll want to drive out to the Hawk for the best views.
But what makes this beach so special is that it is home to a 1500-year-old drowned forest that is exposed at low tide. In fact, I’m told you can see tree stumps still rooted in the original soil, and from the photos I’ve seen, it is a photographer’s dream.
Stoney Island Beach was like something out of a dream. This sandy beach goes on for miles and is protected by beautiful sand dunes. I stood there and watched/photographed the crashing waves for quite some time, but I just couldn’t bring myself to leave. It’s a must during your visit. Just watch this Reel if you need further convincing.
I’m an eighties baby. Of course, I went through an alien phase when they were cool and trending in the nineties. I had alien themed everything one year. So when I heard that Shag Harbour, just minutes from Barrington, was famous for a UFO incident in 1967 – I had to go check it out. In fact, the incident is one of the best-documented UFO events of the past 40 years.
The appearance of a mysterious flying unidentified craft over the ocean and the sighting of strange orange lights in the sky put Shag Harbour, a small fishing village, on the map. You can learn more about the incident here, and I have plans to visit the Shag Harbour UFO Incident Centre on my next visit to Barrington.
I can’t talk about my trip to Barrington without quickly mentioning the fabulous meal and customer service I experienced from Dan’s Ice Cream Shoppe. As I’m sure you can imagine, after eating my weight in lobster rolls and creamed lobster, I was craving something a pinch lighter for dinner by Saturday evening. Dare I say it—I was in the mood for a salad.
I’d passed Dan’s Ice Cream Shoppe plenty during my visit, as it’s centrally located by the Cape Sable Island Causeway and across from Capt. Kat’s Lobster Shack, so when I noticed the Salads sign on the building, I thought – why not? Oh buoy, I’m so glad I popped in! Not only did I have the most fabulous garden salad and pasta salad (yes, I like to mix the two), but this was also the sweetest diner with incredibly friendly folks behind the counter. I’ll definitely be back on my next visit!
When I tell you this trip was full of bucket list items — I mean it. From meeting Lucy the Lobster to judging a lobster roll competition to sailing with Bay Ferries. But there was another wish list Maritime experience that I could check off on this adventure — staying at the Quarterdeck Resort, a little further up the coast, in beautiful Summerville, Nova Scotia.
During my stay at the Quarterdeck Resort, I had the pleasure of calling one of the two-level beachfront Villas home for the night—and let me tell you, I never wanted to leave. These Villas are the perfect blend of spaciousness and cozy comfort, designed to make you feel instantly at ease and in your resort era.
What I love most about these villas is the abundance of outdoor spaces for you to choose from —two balconies and a deck—each offering a perfect spot to soak in the ocean views. And when you’re ready to feel the sand between your toes, the beach is just steps from your door, making it effortlessly easy to embrace the seaside charm. I couldn’t get enough.
Drift off to sleep with the soothing sound of waves crashing just outside your door, an experience that reminded me of the Ocean Waves Beach House in Barrington. While I didn’t tour the other oceanfront accommodations, I wouldn’t hesitate to book a Villa again—and again. It’s that magical, and I can’t wait to return with Dan.
In true resort form, the Quarterdeck has everything you could possibly need on-site, including a beautiful events centre (where I had the honour of judging the Lobster Roll Off), an indoor pool, fitness centre, dry sauna, on-site massage therapy and a surf shop.
It’s also home to a fabulous restaurant, The Grill. I had the opportunity to enjoy a fantastic meal alongside new and old friends, including feasting upon a Baked Lobster Mac and cheese, a feature from their Nova Scotia Lobster Crawl menu that was offered all February long. This dish featured a creamy cheese sauce, lobster and macaroni topped with panko breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese, and baked golden brown to perfection.
After dinner, it’s just a short walk back to your room or villa where you can curl into bed and have the crashing waves lull you to sleep. It’s perfection. This may only make sense to you if you’ve visited Tofino, BC but there was something about this beautiful resort and its villas that reminded me so much of the resort we honeymooned at in Tofino – Pacific Sands Resort. 10/10, no notes.
I love lighthouses—no shocker there. Back in 2009, I was traveling through Nova Scotia for work and had the chance to see Cape Forchu Lighthouse in person. However, this happened during my Blackberry era, and where those blurry photos have gotten is as big a mystery as the lost city of Atlantis.
From the minute I knew I would be on the South Shore, I couldn’t resist stopping in Yarmouth on my way to catch the ferry to properly visit and photograph Cape Forchu, the famous lighthouse known for its distinctive red and white, apple core structure and built in the mid-19th century.
It was pretty chilly and windy when I stopped, so just like in 2009, my visit was short and sweet, but it was worth it. I got to stop and snap some photos at the famous Yarmouth Buoy Wall, which was so pretty in the snow! You can’t miss this colourful roadside attraction on the way to Cape Forchu, so make sure to stop for plenty of photo ops during your visit.
My last stop before this dream trip came to an end was Digby to catch the MV Fundy Rose ferry back to New Brunswick. Before sailing home, I couldn’t resist visiting Digby and of course, seeking out some fresh seafood – especially fresh Digby scallops.
I checked out The Crow’s Nest on Water Street, and it checked ALL my boxes. It has a beautiful view right on the water—I watched fishing boats come and go as I enjoyed my lunch—and a delightful menu featuring the fresh seafood of my dreams. I had their seafood platter, which includes Digby scallops, clams, and haddock, and oh my goodness—it was heavenly. And everyone I met at the restaurant was so nice!
I absolutely adored my time in Digby—albeit brief—and I can’t wait to return this summer to dive even deeper into everything this charming coastal town has to offer. From its world-famous scallops to breathtaking Bay of Fundy views, there’s so much more to see, taste, and experience.
Another round of thanks to those who made this article possible. To Suzy Atwood and the Visit Barrington Community – I can’t thank you enough for hosting me and for the warm coastal hospitality. This weekend was such a dream come true. Thank you to Bay Ferries for inviting me to sail with you on the MV Fundy Rose and to Lois & Dave who invited me to stay in their beautiful Ocean Waves Beach House.
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