If you’re a wine lover, you’ve likely heard the term terroir tossed around, but did you know that while wine enthusiasts have their terroir, we shellfish aficionados have our own term—merroir.
This summer, we indulged in a remarkable evening at Magnetic Hill Winery, celebrating the love of both wine and oysters. Hosted by winemaker and owner Zach Everett, alongside renowned oyster expert and certified oyster specialist Michael Ann Rowe, this intimate gathering brought together a group of foodies passionate about three things: wine, oysters, and celebrating all things local.
When I heard that Michael Ann Rowe—a New Brunswicker now based in New York—was co-hosting the event, I was immediately intrigued. I’ve followed Michael Ann on Instagram for years and have always admired her oyster content. Her knowledge of all things from the sea is unparalleled, and she’s currently studying to become an oyster sommelier.
Yes, that’s a real thing—and I’ve even considered pursuing it myself in my spare time.
I knew Michael Ann and I were kindred spirits, so when the chance to spend an evening at the winery sipping sparkling wine and feasting on oysters with her came up, I couldn’t resist.
Throughout the evening, we embarked on what Michael Ann called a “journey” exploring the parallels between terroir and merroir and why both are so essential. We sampled delicious oysters from two New Brunswick oyster producers, Beausoleil and Chebooktook, while learning more about Magnetic Hill wines and why they pair so beautifully with New Brunswick seafood.
You’ve probably heard of the French term terroir, which describes the unique combination of environmental factors that shape the characteristics of a vineyard and the wine it produces. These factors include the soil type, regional climate, topography (such as elevation, slope, and sun exposure), and the winemaking techniques passed down through generations. All these elements come together to give a wine its distinct identity, influencing its flavour, aroma, and overall character.
Similarly, merroir is to oysters what terroir is to wine.
Just like wine, oysters absorb the flavour profile of the environment they’re grown in, with every aspect of that environment influencing the merroir. The salinity of the water, the minerals, and the surrounding vegetation all play a role. As you explore the New Brunswick coastline, you’ll notice the region’s unique coastal features, each leaving its mark on the taste of our oysters.
New Brunswick’s oyster industry is among the best in the world. As Michael Ann pointed out, it’s truly top-notch—and we should be bragging about it a lot more. So, you can bet your sand dollars that I’ll be talking more about oysters this fall and winter!
Michael Ann emphasized that whether she’s globetrotting or back home in New York, when she’s with others who taste our oysters for the first time, they’re quickly amazed by the incredible freshness. This is just one of the many reasons our oysters command a premium price.
Think about the last time you ordered oysters in a restaurant or saw them on a menu. You probably noticed the price per oyster ranged from $3 to $5. The days of “buck a shuck” are long gone, and I have to agree with Michael Ann—you don’t want an oyster in a restaurant that only costs a dollar! You want an oyster that’s been carefully cultivated, harvested, shucked, and served fresh, making it worth every penny.
Once you’ve visited an oyster farm, been out on the boats, and learned what it takes to bring an oyster from the ocean to your plate, you’ll have a newfound appreciation for the price of oysters and why they’re worth every cent.
Are you curious about oyster farming and where oysters come from? Check out this article I published last summer on New Brunswick’s Southeastern Oyster Route.
When savouring oysters, the quality of the shuck can significantly enhance your experience. Here are a few key considerations when selecting a restaurant or establishment for your oyster feast.
First, if an establishment calls itself an oyster bar, you should be able to watch the shucker at work. A key part of the oyster-tasting experience is interacting with the shucker—learning their story and hearing about their favourite oysters. If a place claims to be an oyster bar but doesn’t have a shucker in sight, it might be worth exploring other options.
Next, pay attention to the shucker’s enthusiasm and care for the oysters. Do they seem passionate about what they’re serving? Are the oysters expertly shucked and well-presented? If you’re served what oyster experts call a “scrambled egg”—an improperly shucked oyster—don’t hesitate to send it back and request properly shucked ones. While it might not seem like a big deal, a poorly shucked oyster can significantly impact the flavour.
Throughout the evening, Michael Ann guided us through the art of properly tasting and savouring an oyster, and let me tell you—I thought I knew everything about enjoying oysters, but I was in for a surprise!
She introduced us to the 6 S’s: See, Smell, Sip, Slurp, Savour, Shell.
First and foremost, always taste your oyster au naturel—no lemon, no hot sauce, no horseradish. Save those for later. Consider the journey that oyster has taken—3 to 5 years to grow, with immense care in its production and harvest. Honour that effort by experiencing the oyster on its own first. If it’s shucked correctly, you’ll notice a delicate balance of sweet and salty flavours. When paired with wine, the wine itself will bring out the citrus notes you might otherwise add.
Start by looking at the oyster. Study the shell, shape and color. Appreciate it.
Next, lift the oyster to your nose and take in its aroma. You should immediately sense the merroir—it should evoke the fresh scent of our New Brunswick oceans.
Next, carefully sip the “liquor”—the natural juice inside the oyster—without eating the oyster just yet. A well-shucked oyster should have plenty of this juice, offering your first true taste of the merroir.
This is also the perfect moment to take a sip of your wine, noticing how it complements and transforms the experience. When you pair an oyster with wine, you’re truly experiencing both merroir and terroir.
Now, slurp the oyster into your mouth and chew it twice to get the full body taste, then inhale through your nose. This process aerates the oyster, allowing you to fully appreciate its complex flavours. After chewing, exhale through your mouth, savouring the different taste notes the oyster offers.
Finally, take a moment to admire the shell and what mother nature has created before diving in for another round.
How fortunate are we to have exceptional wineries like Magnetic Hill Winery in New Brunswick, crafting wines that perfectly complement our world-renowned seafood, especially our oysters?
Among the many outstanding wines Magnetic Hill Winery offers, their Osceola by the Sea and other Osceola grape varieties are personal favourites. These wines pair exquisitely with our local oysters, enhancing the flavours of both.
As Zach pointed out, New Brunswick’s unique climate is ideal for producing wines that elevate seafood experiences. The region’s exposure to salinity and acidity, combined with our mild summers and warm falls, allows wineries like Magnetic Hill to enjoy an extended growing season. With the first frost often arriving only in mid-to-late October, our wineries can cultivate grapes that develop exceptional flavour profiles.
Growing wine by the ocean in New Brunswick profoundly influences the terroir of our wines, contributing to the remarkable synergy between Magnetic Hill Winery’s award-winning Osceola wines and our shellfish, particularly oysters. This harmonious pairing showcases the unique characteristics of our local terroir and highlights why our wines and seafood are a match made in culinary heaven.
Disclaimer: This article was written in partnership with NB Food and Beverages, however, all opinions and thoughts expressed are my own.
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